Hi, all!!  Long-time film guy (both 35mm and Medium Format), and I've been toying with the idea of getting a Nikon D70s body for use with some existing AF and MF lenses, and want searching for some input beyond what I've already read on DPReview.com. My main concern is losing the use of a couple of my favorite AF lenses, currently used on my workhorse F4s and FM3A.  I have a Tokina 28-80 AF-X Pro f/2.8 lens that I use 80% of the time: losing the use of this lens might ( might ) be a deal breaker, but I'm open to comments and suggestions.  Will I still be able to use the new Matrix Metering with this lens?  If not, what kind of metering will be available with this lens?  Other lenses I'm concerned about losing are the Nikon 50mm f/1.4 AF and a Vivitar 100-400 AF f/4.5. Can I use my old Nikon SB-25 flash on this body? I've seen LCD sizes on various sized running from 1.8 (CNet; this is the original D70, no?), 2 (most sites), and 2.5 (a couple comments on this UseNET group).  The D70s has the 2 LCD, yes? Also noticed that the max shutter speed is 30 seconds; what about longer shots (amateur astro photo shots)?  Bulb setting or timed shots longer than 30 seconds? I typically shoot film in the ISO 50-100 range for color slides (and 100-400 for B&W); has anyone seen any issues with a minimum ISO setting of 200 on this body?  Noise above what I could get with ISO 50 on a film body? Can I use a standard cable release on this body?  Looks like it's electronic only now... Is the D70s scheduled for discontinuation any time soon?  I noticed the 'S' model just came out last year but with Nikon discontinuing the FM3A so shortly after putting it on the market... Any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated.  Best price I've seen is at Adorama, so I'll probably buy the body (not kit) from them or B&H. Thanks! Jack

Can I use my old Nikon SB-25 flash on this body? Not for TTL exposure.  I don't know if it will even *try*; but it won't produce good results.  You need modern equipment that supports iTTL for good TTL results.  (If you're using it in manual or A mode where the flash uses its own sensor, that's fine.)

Hi Jack,  ( better not say that on an aircraft these days...) I bought the D70s last year.  The batteries last a really long time between charges, I was impressed.  My favorite low cost lens is the Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 AF.  With the D70s, you can load gamma corrections into the camera called custom tonal curves. When I first got my camera, I hated it.  The images were lifeless and dull looking.  They appeared darker than they should be.  I would have to make ridiculous aperture and shutter settings to get the image that I wanted and then most of the time, the image was blurred because of camera shake.  I learned about the custom tonal curve feature of the camera and its like a completely different camera now.  I get images out of the camera exactly the way that I like them to be.  No tripods for me, no flashes, no post processing.  The camera works beautifully now.  Natural lighting, the way it should be...

Hi Jack,  ( better not say that on an aircraft these days...) I bought the D70s last year.  The batteries last a really long time between charges, I was impressed.  My favorite low cost lens is the Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 AF.  With the D70s, you can load gamma corrections into the camera called custom tonal curves. When I first got my camera, I hated it.  The images were lifeless and dull looking.  They appeared darker than they should be.  I would have to make ridiculous aperture and shutter settings to get the image that I wanted and then most of the time, the image was blurred because of camera shake.  I learned about the custom tonal curve feature of the camera and its like a completely different camera now.  I get images out of the camera exactly the way that I like them to be.  No tripods for me, no flashes, no post processing.  The camera works beautifully now.  Natural lighting, the way it should be...         Hmm ... are you using it in Auto mode?  I tend to prefer Program mode

Hi Don I prefer using manual mode.  The Auto ISO is turned off.  I've tried using it but I'm not crazy about the results.  The ISO is set to 400 most of the time.  The custom tonal curve feature was the biggest improvement in my camera.